2024
MANASLU
Mansiri Himal
8,163
m a.s.l.
Successful expedition
On September 23rd Matěj successfully climbed the eight-thousandth peak of Manaslu, from where he skied back down. Without supplementary oxygen, solo, in a fast and clean style. The trip from the basecamp to the summit and back took him only 40 hours. These aspects place the achievement among the truly elite even in world class level competition.
Ascent and ski descent without oxygen
2023
SURA PEAK
Khumbu Himalayas
6,764
m a.s.l.
M6, avg. ∡ 70° (max. 90°), 1 500 m
first ascent in alpine style
The expedition to the Himalayan summit of Sura Peak 6,764 m a.s.l. with Mark Holeček has entered the history of mountaineering. On May 23, they climbed the west face together and called the route Simply Beautiful.
According to the Explorersweb.com portal, this challenging climb was ranked among the top 10 expeditions of 2023. It took the climbers three days, during which they had to sleep in the cold, hanging directly in the ice wall exhausted and almost without food. The expedition was the subject of an original film called Simply Beautiful, made in collaboration with leading Czech outdoor filmmaker Tomáš Galásek.
MANASLU
Minimalist solo expedition
An unsuccessful attempt to solo unsupported ascent of the eighth highest mountain in the world Manaslu 8,163 m a.s.l. from C3 to the summit and back in one go, alpine style. Here, for the first time in his life, Matej's speed did not pay off. He would have reached the summit too early in the morning and would have froze during the descent in the dark. So he had to turn back at 7,600 m a.s.l. and skip the summit.
From the village to the top and back
Island Peak and Lobuche East 6,119 m a.s.l.
Climbs within the acclimatization rotation before the first ascent of Sura Peak. From the village to the summit of Lobuche East (6,119 m) and back in 6 hours, 11 kilometres, 1,300 vertical metres of ascent. After the descent, Matej continued another 10 kilometres with his belongings to Chukhung village. Matěj took a similarly fast route to another nearby peak, Island Peak.
Everesting
Dynafit Snow Leopard Day
Every year, the Dynafit brand organizes an event to support the protection of its emblematic animal - the snow leopard. For every meter climbed, the company sends one cent to organizations supporting the beast. Matej took this as a challenge and set the feat known as "Everesting". In 11 hrs and 30 mins, he skied up the height of Mt. Everest, more than 8,850 vertical meters.
2010 - 2022
All Alpine four-thousanders
Alps, Europe
82 x 4000m
1st Czech, 3rd youngest man
X. X. 2010 Stralhorn
-
9. 7. 2022 Grand Pilier d' Angle
mountaineering, ski mountaineering
Over the past twelve years, Matěj has successively climbed all 82 four-thousand Alpine peaks and became the first Czech to do so. In total, Matěj was accompanied by 20 people and climbed 40 peaks solo, leading to over 115,000 vertical metres. He even reached the top of the 4,000-meter peak a total of 110 times during this period. He climbed the vast majority of them without being approached by cable car.
hIGHLIGHTS:
PROJECTS
Important projects, expeditions, races, achievements and even unsuccessful attempts that Matěj undertook.
other ascents and results
2019
LH 24
1. place MIX
Winter extreme race on Lysá hora
A 24-hour extreme mountain running race for pairs and individuals. The goal of the race is to complete as many loops as possible on a course that crosses the summit of Lysá hora within 24 hours. This challenge takes place in winter, typically on ice and snow. Matěj is very familiar with Lysá hora, and together with Julie Rampírová, they won the MIX category by completing 14 loops. In total, they covered approximately 11 900 meters of elevation gain and ran about 184 kilometers.
2022
Beskydská sedmička
4th place
Ultramarathon 101 km - 5 500m D+
More than 100 kilometres long extreme cross-country race, which leads over 7 main peaks of Beskydy mountains. In 2022 Matěj took part in it just after his return from Kyrgyzstan, where he attempted a record climb on Pik Lenina. Matěj had untreated health problems and bought the entry fee the day before... And with a time of 13 hours 22 minutes he finished it in a great fourth place among almost three thousand starters.
2022
LHUT
9th place
Lysohorský ultra trail 67 km - 4 100m D+
Lysohorský ultra trail is another popular running race whose track goes around and over the top of Lysá hora. On the Ultra (67 km / 4,100 m.+), the racers will reach the summit four times. In 2022 Matěj ran the race as a training run and still placed a nice ninth place with a time of 7 hours 23 minutes. Matěj was born next to Lysá hora and almost his whole family is participating in the race!
2022
Sherpa rallye
11th place
Race of Tatra porters with loads
The Sherpa Rally is a race in the High Tatras held in honor of high-altitude porters. The route varies each year. In 2022, it went from Hrebienok to Téry’s Hut. Matěj was at the starting line for the first time, carrying a load of 60 kg, and his supporter dropped out right at the beginning. Fortunately, he encountered a friend and his daughter, and with their help, he completed the race, as he puts it, "with just some children's drinks." He finished in eleventh place with a time of just under two hours.
2022
Peuterey Intégrale
Alps
Two-day speed crossing
In July 2022, Matěj set off with Ondřej Mrklovský from Bivacco Borelli to Mont Blanc. The route is called Peuterey Intégrale and it is the longest ridge in the Alps. It is also one of the most challenging. The boys climbed it in 40 hours including sleep. The climb was spiced up by rappelling and wandering in the dark, as well as the lack of water. They had to make it do with just one litre for 21 hours. And they climbed up to difficulty 5c and ascended 4,500 m.
2022
Pik Lenin
Pamir
Speed record attempt
Matěj attempted a record ascent of Peak Lenin (7 134 m) from base camp in a single push. The climb covers 58 kilometers with an elevation gain of 4 400 meters. All previous speed attempts were made from C1, which is 1 400 meters higher and 14 kilometers from base camp. Matěj was stopped by severe stomach issues and, in -30°C and strong winds, reached an altitude of 6 730 m. There, he had to turn back due to exhaustion and dehydration.
2018
Alps
Fast & light
A climb awarded the "Talent of the Year" prize by the Czech Mountaineering Federation. This ascent to the highest mountain in Europe usually takes climbers three days. However, Matěj and his climbing partner Radek Zavadil managed to complete it, including the descent, in just 25 hours. The route from the Val Veny valley to the summit of Mont Blanc and down to Les Houches primarily involves rock and mixed terrain, with difficulty up to 5 UIAA. The route is 24 km long with an elevation gain of approximately 3 610 meters.
2022
Traverse of Gipsy Tatarka
High Tatras, Slovakia
16 hours 25 minutes
record time
50 km, 6 000 m elevation gain, 16 passes, 23 valleys
The winter crossing of this legendary route in the High Tatras was in Matěj's mind for 5 years. He accomplished it on his own, in one go, without much prior research of the terrain and in record time, which he shortened by 4 hours. On the route it is necessary to rappel, use crampons and descend steep couloirs on skialp skis, which he had to carry with him all the time. The biggest difficulty of the crossing, apart from the difficult orientation, is the correct timing of the descents in avalanche terrain and the crossing of technical passages, which are good to climb in daylight.
ski mountaineering, FKT
2010 - 2022
All Alpine four-thousanders
Alps, Europe
82 x 4,000m
1st Czech, 3rd youngest man
X. X. 2010 Stralhorn
-
9. 7. 2022 Grand Pilier d' Angle
mountaineering, ski mountaineering
Over the period of twelve years, Matěj has successively climbed all 82 four-thousand Alpine peaks and became the first Czech to do so. In total, Matěj was accompanied by 20 people and climbed 40 peaks solo, leading to over 115,000 vertical metres. He even reached the top of the 4,000-meter peak a total of 110 times during this period. He climbed the vast majority of them without being approached by cable car.
other ascents and results
2019
LH 24
1st place MIX
Winter extreme race on Lysá hora
A 24-hour extreme mountain trail running race for pairs and individuals. The principle of the race is to complete as many laps of the course leading over the top of Lysá hora Mountain within 24 hours. This is done in winter, usually on ice and snow. Matěj is at home on Lysá hora and together with Julie Rampírová they won the MIX category with 14 circuits. Together they covered about 11,900 vertical metres, covering about 184 km.
2022
Beskydská sedmička
4th place
Ultramarathon 101 km - 5 500 m D+
More than 100 kilometres long extreme trail running race, which leads over 7 main peaks of Beskydy Mountains. In 2022 Matěj took part in it just after his return from Kyrgyzstan, where he attempted a speed record climb on Pik Lenina. Matěj had untreated health problems and bought the entry fee the day before... And with a time of 13 hours 22 minutes he finished it in a great fourth place among almost three thousand competitors.
2022
LHUT
9th place
Ultra trail race 67 km - 4 100 m D+
The LHUT race is another popular running race with its route around and over the top of Lysá hora. On the Ultra race route (67 km / 4,100 m D+), competitors reach the summit four times. In 2022 Matěj ran the race as a training run and still finished in a nice ninth place with a time of 7 hours 23 minutes. Matěj was born next to Lysá hora and almost his whole family participated in the race!
2022
Sherpa rallye
11th place
Race of Tatra porters with loads
The Sherpa Rallye is a race in the High Tatras to honour high mountain porters. The route varies. In 2022 it led from Hrebienok to Tery's hut. Matěj stood at the start for the first time, carrying a 60 kg load for the first time and his arranged supporter dropped out right at the beginning. Luckily he met a friend and his daughter, with their help he finished the race as he says "on children's drinks". He placed 11th with a time under two hours.
2022
Peuterey Intégrale
Alps
Two-day speed traverse
In July 2022, Matěj set off with Ondřej Mrklovský from Bivacco Borelli to Mont Blanc. The route is called Peuterey Intégrale and it is the longest ridge in the Alps. It is also one of the most challenging. The boys climbed it in 40 hours including sleep. The climb was spiced up by abseiling and wandering in the dark, as well as the lack of water. They had to make do with just one litre for 21 hours. And they climbed up to difficulty 5c and ascended 4,500 m. More in article...
2022
Pik Lenin
Pamir
Speed record attempt
Matěj attempted a record-breaking ascent of Pik Lenina (7 134 m a.s.l.) from the basecamp in one go. It is a 58 km long climb with an elevation gain of 4,400 meters. All previous speed attempts were made from C1, which is 1,400 metres higher and 14 kilometres from BC.
Matěj was stopped by severe intestinal problems and reached an altitude of 6,730 metres in -30 °C and strong winds. There he had to turn around.
2018
Alps
Fast & light
The climb was awarded the talent of the year prize by the Czech Mountaineering Association. This climb to the highest mountain in Europe usually takes climbers three days. Matěj and his climbing mate Radek Zavadil made it with the descent in 25 hours. The ascent from the Val Veny valley to the summit of Mont Blanc with the descent to Les Houches is mostly rocky and mixed terrain up to 5 UIAA. It is 24 km long with an elevation gain of about 3,610 vertical metres.